|
Post by Lady PP on May 22, 2005 22:28:08 GMT -5
Choose tomatoes that are young and have not flowered. When I plant my tomatoes I always remove all but the top leaves and bury the plant up to the leaves. I always have strong healthy tomatoes.
|
|
|
Post by Lady PP on May 22, 2005 22:30:28 GMT -5
There is a variety of reasons tomatoes don't set fruit-too dry, need fertilizer or it is to hot. When temperatures soar the plant will drop it's blooms. Just have to wait for cool temps.
|
|
|
Post by Lady PP on May 22, 2005 22:34:18 GMT -5
Another thing I have learned about raising tomatoes is to mulch them deep with a loose mulch. I use grass cuttings that I fluff frequently so they don't mat (this will make it impossible to water). As the plants grow I keep adding more grass clippings ending up with 4 to 6 inches of them. This keeps the roots cool and helps to retain moisture. The tomatoes love it!!
|
|
hayley
Junior Member
Posts: 52
|
Post by hayley on Jun 1, 2005 0:38:25 GMT -5
You can grow tomatoes in containers. The container should be 20" in diameter and 18" deep.
|
|
|
Post by Lady PP on Jun 9, 2005 20:20:24 GMT -5
Fence your tomatoes
I have good luck fencing my tomatoes. I put up two posts about two feet apart than I make a circle of net-type wire fencing (not chicken wire, tomatoes will crush chicken wire) and staple the wire to the posts. I use wire about 2 feet high. Where I live it is hot, frequently suffers droughts and windy. The fenced tomatoes is allowed to grow naturally (unlike staking where plants are limited to a steam. Suckers are removed. This arrangement allows the plants to shade the soil and keeps the tomatoes off the ground.
|
|
|
Post by Lady PP on Jun 9, 2005 20:43:08 GMT -5
Preparing Soil
When digging bed add 1/2 pound compost per plant or trowel full of decomposed manure or a slow release general fertilizer. The plants will not need to be fed again until fruit forms. Be careful with use of nitrogen as this will create lush green plants with few fruits.
|
|